Torreys Peak via Kelso Ridge > Grays Peak

Date:  August 17, 2013
Climbing Party:  Amanda Harnden

For those of you who are curious about a Sawtooth Ridge / Kelso Ridge tale of the tape, you are in luck!  I will try to compare both routes in this post, and let you go from there.

Torreys > Grays via Kelso
R/T Mileage: ~7.5 miles
Total Elevation Gain:  3,740

Bierstadt > Spaulding via Sawtooth

R/T Mileage: ~8 miles

Estimated Total Elevation Gain: 3,262'

Trailheads/Access
Both trailheads are easily accessed off I-70.  The Grays Peak trailhead is found at the top of a dirt road. If you are late to the show, you will end up parking quite a ways down this dirt road which will add significant distance and elevation to your hike.  It pays to wake up early and get a coveted spot at the top.  Also, turning around on this dirt road looks like it could be challenging at the end of the day!
Advantage:  Sawtooth

The Approach
The 1.75 mile approach to the Kelso Ridge trail through Stevens Gulch is far more spectacular than the approach to the Sawtooth.  It is hard not to be humbled by the towering McClellan Ridge.  Gaining only 1,000 feet in the initial 1.75 miles, it is a great warmup, and gets your wind and legs on the same page before getting to some more serious terrain.
Advantage:  Kelso 

The Ridge 

The Sawtooth Ridge begins with a 700 foot elevation drop to reach the saddle of its ridge.  That is a lot of down climbing even if you are staying on the ridge itself.  It is a lot of lowering positioning and good potential for rockfall (wear a helmet).  The ability to look to the west on this ridge and see approaching weather is certainly a plus.  Even better, the majority of the traverse is on the eastern side of the ridge providing good shelter from wind.  From the saddle, there is some route finding to be done in regaining your lost elevation, and to get to the entrance of the crux section.  For most, a skirt around the buttress to the right is the best option, although a more advanced direct route can be taken.

Kelso Ridge is a a constant climb.  There is no loss in elevation on this one.  Once you get on it at 12,500,  start climbing!  I found the rock on this route to be solid where it mattered the most.  There is a lot of loose rock here, but on the trickier sections, it was solid when it needed to be.  Definitely wear a helmet on this one - be weary of climbers ahead of you, and be mindful of those below you.  This ridge is on the eastern aspect of the mountain, and Torreys summit will obstruct your view of incoming weather.  The ridge is very engaging, and route finding on it is not always straight forward.  The 14ers dot com description gives good benchmarks, but leaves a lot to be explored by those on it.  There are several sections where you could make it as hard as you like!
Advantage:  Draw

Traversing early on up on Kelso

The Crux
The comparison of the crux sections...isn't that what why we're here??

The crux on the Sawtooth is the Sawtooth itself.  It makes itself known while you are getting your gear together in the parking lot.  It is intimidating.  It points defiantly at Mt. Bierstadt on the ridge, and is one of my favorite Colorado mountain features.  You get up close and personal after an already long day of summitting Bierstadt and traversing the ridge.  Before getting to the Sawtooth, the route is well sheltered with little exposure.  When getting to the base of the Sawtooth, the ground drops off and gets very airy.  You are looking down at birds flying, and the exposure smacks you in the mouth!  There is no avoiding the exposure on this one.  The route leads you up a ramp, which is filled with loose rock and scree.  The ramp is wide, and provides an escape from the exposure.  About halfway up, it gets to be easier going with better rock and holds.  Before you know it, you will have rounded the corner at the top into a beautiful, vast, alpine garden!

Kelso's crux is open for debate, but the one that everyone talks about is the knife edge right around 14,000 feet.  The knife edge is notorious for its huge drops on both sides.  Crossing it was very awkward, and required moves I had never, ever had to make in hiking.  For me, the easiest way across was to straddle the edge and scoot across it...very strange.  I don't believe this to be the crux however.

Coming around the corner after the knife edge

Amanda and I both agreed that the crux was actually this portion of the climb (below).  The white wall ahead of Amanda looks small in this picture, but to get up it you first need to descend a little into a gully (hidden from view).  It's roughly 40' from the base of this wall to the top.  The handholds are good, but there was one move on this rock that required an awkward move to get around.  It's a tight squeeze to pass it, and a little awkward with a pack on.
Advantage:  Sawtooth

Amanda approaching the white wall.

The Descent
The Sawtooth is definitely a longer day no matter how you slice it...basically your 4 options are:

Beatdown option#1:  Go down the initial steep gully and bash your way through the willows;
Beatdown option#2:  Keep going to Evans;
Beatdown option#3   Go to Mt. Spaulding and down it's northwest gully and bash through the willows;
Beatdown option#4   Climb back across the Sawtooth, up Bierstadt, and down the main trail

Kelso descent is way easier, and you'll be eating your victory burger back in Denver in no time.
Advantage: Kelso

Bottom line, both are great routes that give you different things...try em both:)  If you have done one or both, what are your thoughts on the two?