Pettingell Peak (13,553') via East Ridge

Date:                    July 4, 2013
Climbing Party:   Zach Taylor, Nathan Hankins
R/T:                     9 Miles, 3,300 gain


Following our weekly Wednesday meeting, Zach, Nathan and I bolted up the I-70 corridor to the Herman Gulch exit (218) to camp at the Herman Gulch trailhead.  We had our sights on Pettingell Peak via the East Ridge for a fun class 3 scramble, and to get a little more familiar with the area.  We had our eyes on the west ridge of Quandary, but this was more attractive as it was closer, in territory, and none of us had been up in this drainage before.

After getting our camp set up, and conversing with a motorist who had stopped for a safety break, we hunkered down in the parking lot for a few hours sleep.  The jake-braking semis coming out of the tunnel all through the night ensured we all got quality rest before our hike.

At 4:30 AM, I rolled over and accidentally hit the "panic" button on my truck keys sounding the alarm, and waking everyone up.  I didn't feel as bad since that was the time we were planning on getting up in the first place.  We hit the trail at about 5AM, the light provided by the sun and moon together.

At the low point of the saddle, about to move to the summit ridge.

We took the well travelled Herman Gulch trail to the junction about 2.5 miles up, marked with a sign.  At the sign, looking straight ahead is a low lying saddle of the east ridge of Pettingell.  Once you leave the established trail, it is a "choose your own adventure" route straight up to the saddle.  It is a steep, direct route to gain the saddle, but once you get there, you will be rewarded with gorgeous views of the Herman Gulch drainage and Jones Pass area.  Once you attain the ridge, the next objective is the short but steep scree climb up to the summit ridge.  Looking west at this point, you will have a better look at the class 3 ridge ahead.

Herman Gulch

Along the ridge it is important to check your handholds and footholds, but overall the holds along the ridge are bomber, and can be trusted.  There are a few sections of the ridge that are somewhat exposed to the right, but can always be avoided to the left.  There is a large face at the end of the ridge that we had read would appear to be impassable.  When we got there though it was pretty straightforward, and were able to scramble up to the summit without an issue.

After all that, this is the only pic of the ridge I took...

On the way down, follow that drainage!

On a day when the front range fourteeners were most likely at capacity, we enjoyed solitude at the summit.  This was my first 13er, and it was great!  I enjoyed the scramble, the route finding, scenery, and solitude it provided.  It also felt great to test out my ears at elevation.  Aside from constant ringing, they felt fine.  Pressure didn't affect them one bit.

I will add that being deaf in one ear enhances the serenity that can be found in the outdoors:)  

Cookin' up some bratwurst on the summit for the 4th!